Hey, have you noticed your car doesn’t float over bumps like it used to? Now every little crack in the road seems to hit you like a punch. Don’t worry, you’re not imagining it. As your car accumulates miles, its suspension gets beaten up, and those teeth-rattling rides are the way it tells you it’s time to pay attention. Let’s get that marshmallowy ride back, with an illustrated, hands-on guide to inspecting your suspension for wear.
Your car’s suspension is its knees. It bends to absorb shocks, and keeps you on course. It ties your wheels to the car. It’s what makes you comfortable and in control and safe. But like every other hardworking part, it wears out eventually. And if you neglect it you can go from riding in a comfortable car to rattling your bones in a tin can—or worse, a death trap. So let’s talk about why that is, and how you can see trouble coming.
Why Your Suspension Should Matter to You
Think of the last time you hit a pothole. Did your car absorb the bump, or did it rattle you to your fillings? A good suspension is what keeps such jolts in check. It keeps you from tipping over in turns and makes sure your wheels stick to the ground [1]. Whether it’s the common shocks and struts arrangement or something fancier like an air suspension, this is what makes it possible to drive safely and comfortably.
Here’s the catch: it won’t keep itself in good shape. But if you check it regularly, you can avoid surprise repair bills, make your car last longer, and make every drive comfortable. Plus you won’t get caught by surprise and spin out on a sharp curve. Let’s make suspension care a habit. Your wallet and your peace of mind will thank you.

Early Warning Signs: Listen to Your Car
You’re driving down a road you’ve driven a hundred times before, and something seems… wrong. Maybe it’s rougher than it should be. Maybe the car pulls slightly to one side. These aren’t just annoying, they’re your suspension crying for help. If you notice them early enough, you can save yourself a lot of trouble. Let’s go through the symptoms.
- Rougher rides: Once smooth roads now seem full of bumps. If your suspension isn’t damping shocks the way it used to, you’ll feel it [2].
- Handling Quirks: Does your car pull to one side or feel sort of floaty in turns? Instability or pulling to one side means worn parts are interfering with your steering [2].
- Strange Noises: Hear squeaks or clunks or thuds when you go over bumps? A squeaky clunk is probably sway bar links. Thuddy thuds are probably bushings [4].
- Visual clues: Look for uneven tire wear, oily leaks on shocks, or a corner that sags. All are badges of suspension dishonor [5].
- Excessive Bouncing: Push down on a corner of your car. If it bounces more than twice before stopping, your shocks are shot [6][7][8].
Don’t ignore these red flags. They’re telling you to do something before a minor problem becomes an expensive fix—or a catastrophe.
Safety first: prep for a DIY inspection
Ready to take a look? But before you go tunneling beneath your car, let’s make sure you’re prepared. A little preparation is all it takes to keep you out of trouble.
First assemble your tools. You’ll need a floor jack to raise the car, jack stands on which to support it, a pry bar to test for looseness, a flashlight for dark places, and safety glasses to protect your eyes. Got all that? Good.
Park on a flat, solid surface. No slopes, no gravel. You don’t want your car to roll. Put on the parking brake and chock the wheels with rocks or bricks. Don’t take chances on this one.
When jacking, never trust just a jack. Jack stands are your lifeline—they prevent the car from crushing you. Double check before you slide under that they’re firmly in place. And one other thing: don’t work on your car immediately after driving it. Hot engine or exhaust components will burn you. Wait at least 30 minutes before starting.
With that out of the way, let’s roll up our sleeves and get into the inspection.
Step-by-step DIY Suspension Check
You don’t have to be a mechanic to see suspension wear. It takes only a couple minutes to feel the pulse of your car. Let’s go through it now together and catch things early.
Start with a Visual Sweep (At Ride Height)
Start by eyeballing your car without lifting it. Look at the shocks and struts. Any oily streaks or leaks? That means seals have failed. Look at rubber bushings, control arms, and springs for cracks and tears. If bushings are squashed, they’re not cushioning.
Don’t ignore the tires. Run your hand over the tread. Uneven wear or cupping (little dips) indicates suspension problems [5]. And finally, stand back. Does your car sit level, or is one corner sagging? Sagging suggests tired springs or shocks.
Pass the Bounce Test
Here’s an easy one. Push down hard on each corner of your car, above the wheel well, and let go immediately. It should stop bouncing after one or two bounces. More than that? Your shocks or struts are dampening poorly [6][7][8]. Test all four corners and compare.
Get Underneath (Car Lifted)
Now lift your car safely with jack stands—never just a jack. Grab each part as you look at it. Feel for looseness. Listen for clunks. That’s wear. Check in both loaded (on the wheels) and unloaded (jacked up) states if you can—some problems only show up in one or the other [13].
- Wheel play: With the wheels off the ground, rock the tire at 12 and 6 o’clock, then 3 and 9. Too much play means bad balljoints or tie rods [14][15].
- Ball Joints: pry between the control arm and steering knuckle with a prybar. Is there any play? Any gap? They’re shot [16].
- Bushings : Check for cracks or dry rot on control arm and sway bar bushings. Bang them with a pry bar. Too much squish isn’t good [17].
- Shocks/Struts: Beyond leaks, look for dents. In the case of struts, look for wear on the mount [18].
- Sway Bar & Links: Shake by hand. Hear a thunk? Links or bushings are probably shot [4].
- Tie Rods: check the rubber boots for tears. Rock the wheel side-to-side—play means trouble [14].
Take your time. If anything feels off, note it down. You’ve got this!

When to Call in the Pros
You did a great job with your DIY check, but sometimes you need expert eyes. If you’re not sure about a noise or a sagging corner, don’t guess. Suspension problems can be subtle, and especially with high-tech suspensions like adaptive suspensions, you need special tools [5].
There are some repairs, like ball joint swaps and alignments, where you need pro gear and expertise. If you screw it up you can make the car handle badly or even dangerously [22]. Worn suspension is more than uncomfortable. It can cause you to lose control, or increase your stopping distance. Don’t take chances.
If you’re in Bellingham, WA, use Bruce Cox Imports. Since 1995 they’ve been providing Ferndale and Lynden with the best auto suspension repair around. Their ASE certified mechanics use state of the art tools for any car. 2 year/24000 mile warranty, loaner cars, and after hours drop off. Tell them everything you’ve noticed—every little detail helps them nail the diagnosis.
Your Next Steps: Stay Ahead
Got questions? Let’s take a few. How often should you inspect your suspension? Tie it to every oil change, or at least once a year. Can you drive with worn suspension? No—that’s crazy. Handling suffers, stopping distance increases, and other parts wear faster [22]. If you see anything suspicious, don’t wait—call a mechanic. Don’t know? Better safe than sorry—get a pro opinion. And after you’ve had work done on your suspension, don’t skip the wheel alignment. It not only makes handling crisp, but also makes your tires last longer [15].
Final Thought: Drive Safe, Drive Smooth
Here’s the bottom line: your suspension isn’t merely about comfort—it’s your safety net on the road. Checks like the ones we’ve described catch wear before it becomes a problem. And a well-maintained suspension means better handling, smoother riding over potholes, and fewer repair shocks to your wallet [5].
Don’t ignore those warning signs. Whether it’s a clunk or just a bumpy ride, take action now. Trust the pros for suspension repair car needs, and make maintenance a priority. Your car—and everyone who rides in it—deserves that peace of mind. So take a minute today to inspect, or schedule an inspection. Safe travels begin with a smooth ride!
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the most common symptoms of worn car suspension?
Common symptoms include rougher rides than usual, handling quirks like pulling to one side or feeling floaty in turns, strange noises such as squeaks, clunks, or thuds when going over bumps, visual clues like uneven tire wear or oily leaks on shocks, and excessive bouncing when pushing down on a car corner.
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How can I perform the ‘bounce test’ to check my car’s shocks or struts?
Push down hard on each corner of the car above the wheel well and release it. The car should stop bouncing after one or two bounces. If it bounces more than twice, the shocks or struts are likely dampening poorly.
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What essential safety precautions must I take before performing a DIY suspension inspection?
You must park on a flat, solid surface, engage the parking brake, chock the wheels, use jack stands to support the car (never rely solely on the jack), ensure jack stands are firmly in place, and wait at least 30 minutes after driving for hot components to cool down.
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What tools are needed for a basic DIY suspension inspection?
You will need a floor jack, jack stands, a pry bar, a flashlight, and safety glasses.
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What visual checks can I perform on my suspension without lifting the car?
Look for oily streaks or leaks on shocks and struts, check rubber bushings, control arms, and springs for cracks and tears, examine tires for uneven wear or cupping, and observe if the car sits level or if one corner sags.
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When should I consult a professional mechanic for suspension issues?
Consult a professional if you are unsure about a noise or a sagging corner, if repairs involve complex components like ball joint swaps, or if your car has high-tech suspension systems that require specialized tools and expertise.
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What is the recommended frequency for inspecting a car’s suspension?
It is recommended to inspect the suspension at least once a year, or ideally, tie it to every oil change.